I'm ready to get out and dial this bad boy in! I may go back down there tomorrow and get some more supplies. I got a powder measure, balls, patches and caps while I was at Midsouth Shooters Supply yesterday while I was picking up the gun. I'm not complaining as the rest of the rifle looks wonderful. I have the tools and know it won't be a big job at all. In the both pictures you can really tell at the bottom of the lock how far the wood sticks out and that's the same for the wood around the top of the lock as well. In the bottom one the wood pokes out enough that it stops the hammer at a certain point. In the top picture especially you can see how tight the hammer is against the wood. I'm going to remove the lock and sand the area down a tad, but I was wondering if it should be completely flush with the top surface of the lock or should the lock be inset just a little? I couldn't really find any pictures online to see the detail I'm looking for, but here is what I've got. The hammer is rubbing up against the wood fairly tight. I do have some questions about the fit and finish around the lock. ![]() When they're on the mend I plan on applying several coats of Tru-Oil to the stock. As luck would have it the kids would both get stomach bugs the day daddy gets a new toy. ![]() At least I love looking at it while it sits in the box. KEY-LYMAN-GPR Wedge Key, forward long oval head, for Lyman Great Plains Rifle, blued steel. KEY-LYMAN-GPP Wedge Key, oval head for Lyman Plains Pistol, blued steel. I bought a Lyman Great Plains Rifle yesterday in. KEY-G-194-L Wedge key, wax cast steel, extra long, slotted for capture pin.
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